2010 Domaine Bonneau du Martray, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 1x750ml

Robert Parker 96

The 2010 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru offers an enticing array of marine scents on the nose: cockle shells and estuarine aromas. Give it a couple more minutes and watch those lovely grilled walnut scents flourish and multiply so that is ends up almost Meursault Perrieres in character. The palate makes an immediate impression on the entry with that subtle nutty theme continuing, partnered with racy acidity, superb concentration and a long, tense finish that is energetic and surfeit with mineralite, flint popping up on the finish. So delicious you could broach a bottle now – but that would be depriving you of what will be in a decade-s time! Drink 2016-2035. Time to fill in a small gap of notes relating to the most significant grower in the Corton hill – Bonneau du Martray. Jean-Charles suggested we taste recent vintages together after the 2012s, which I was more than happy to do. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Atlanta Wholesale Wines, Atlanta, GA; tel. (404) 696-9440; C-est Vin, Arlington, VA; tel. (703) 243-3559; Scott Paul Wines, Oregon; tel. (503) 852-7300, Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA; tel. (504) 897-0191 [Neal Martin, 30/12/2013]

Anticipated maturity: 2016-2035

Vinous 94+

Good pale yellow. Penetrating aromas of citrus peel, spices, metallic minerality and crushed rock. Tightly wound, gripping and deep, with outstanding concentration and clarity and a density of texture that reminded me of the 2005 here. A flavor of candied lime peel is already quite exhilarating but this wine’s youthfully imploded character calls for at least seven or eight years of cellaring. Today, this is rather like a tighter version of the 2011, and even more closed than a bottle I rated 94 in Issue 164. [Stephen Tanzer, 09/01/2013]