2023 Domaine Marquis d’Angerville, Volnay Premier Cru, Clos des Ducs 1×1.5L

Vinous 93-95

The 2023 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru seems to have a different aromatic profile from the other Premier Crus. More introverted at first with darker fruit as well as sea cave and light loamy scents, it takes time to cohere in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grip. It is structured with good tension yet more backward and less giving than, say, Champans or Taillepieds at the moment. This is the one cuvée I would cellar for several years before broaching. [Neal Martin, 01/01/2025]

Anticipated maturity: 2026-2048