2022 Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Volnay Premier Cru, Champans 1x750ml

Vinous 91-93

The 2022 Volnay Les Champans 1er Cru was completely de-stemmed like the Clos des Chênes and underwent a maximum of three punch-downs. It is matured in 25% new oak. There is a very small reduction on the nose, though that does not disguise the fruit intensity here: black cherries, black plum and crushed violet. The palate is ripe and sexy on the entry, with satin-textured black and blueberry layers. One sample from a new barrel was too oaky, another from a used more expressive with almost sultry red fruit, rose petal and sous-bois. Fans out wonderfully towards the finish. Classy, but it will require some time. [Neal Martin, 01/11/2024]

Anticipated maturity: 2026-2045

Burghound 91-94

This too is sufficiently reduced as to be impossible to fairly assess. By contrast, there is a lovely freshness and detail to the sleek, intense and equally stony flavors that possess a bit more refinement while exhibiting excellent length on the balanced finale. This isn’t especially dense and while it does need to develop better depth, more should almost certainly arise with time in bottle. I quite like this as it’s understated and harmonious. [Allen Meadows, 04/10/2024]