2017 Keller, Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling GG, Rheinhessen 1x750ml

Vinous 94

Bright lime and grapefruit are allied with a vivid impression of chalk suffusion, intimated on the nose and then featured on a silken palate. The sense of sheer extract-richness here is formidable. But whereas I tend to think of the mineral character promoted by Kirchspiel – especially in a vintage with high acidity – as conducive to severity and austerity, the texture and generous juiciness on display in this instance make for a Riesling that is infectiously approachable even at this early stage. Chalky and ashen notes lend intrigue while salinity serves for saliva-inducement on a gripping, vibrant, not to mention downright refreshing finish. (As usual, there was a small separately bottled batch of Kirchspiel that finished with higher residual sugar and which Keller marketed as “Riesling RR.” Unfortunately, I did not get an opportunity to taste it.) [David Schildknecht, 07/02/2019]

Anticipated maturity: 2019-2033