1998 Chateau Lafleur, Pomerol 1x750ml

Vinous 97

The 1998 Lafleur has been biding its time since it exited from barrel and is now just beginning to flex its muscles. The wonderful bouquet has finally opened with complex red berry fruit, wild hedgerow, truffle and Earl Grey scents that are beautifully defined, opulent yet wonderfully controlled. That translates across onto the palate, which is deep and opulent compared to, say, the 2000, yet exhibits real panache and style. This is structured, yet time is abrading its austerity after 27 years to reveal a compelling white pepper- and mineral-infused finish that is sensual and harmonious. The 1998 is utterly sublime and destined for a long drinking window. Tasted from ex-chateau magnum at Kate & Kon’s 40-Year vertical in Austria. [Neal Martin, 01/09/2025]

Anticipated maturity: 2026-2055

Robert Parker 94

Tasted from an ex-chateau bottle at the Lafleur vertical dinner at Attersee in Austria. I cannot believe how long it is since I last encountered this 1998 Lafleur! I am not quite as enthused as when I first tasted it back in 2004. Deep in colour, one notices a very rich, opulent bouquet that has a lactic tincture. This subsides in the glass to reveal touches of creme de cassis, blueberry and hints of dark chocolate. The palate is full-bodied, rich and powerful, although analyzing the wine against the 2001, one notices less tension and delineation, more glycerine on the 1998. It is a a oesexya Lafleur, but I am not quite sure if that fits comfortably with its signature style. I am sure others might like it more than myself and I would be able to understand why, even if I would not agree. Tasted June 2012. [Neal Martin, 01/06/2012]