1990 Chateau Haut-Brion Premier Cru Classe, Pessac-Leognan 1x750ml

Vinous 95+

The 1990 Haut-Brion can give the ’89 a run for its money on the right day. This is intense on the nose, with blackberry, tobacco, gravel and just a light touch of camphor. It has stunning delineation and is perhaps the most mercurial ’90 First Growth at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied and powerful, although this bottle was missing the finesse that I have discerned in previous bottles. It fans out beautifully on the finish and is surfeited with personality, yet I know full well that there are better examples out there. Tasted single-blind at the 1990 Bordeaux dinner at Medlar. [Neal Martin, 01/12/2025]

Anticipated maturity: 2025-2055

Robert Parker 95

Served blind by Philippe Schofield at Chez Bruce, it is probably a pity that it had to follow the behemoths that are Haut-Brion and La Mission ’89. It patently had a light, leafier bouquet compared to the ’89 with a surprising level of rusticity, but finely tuned with an attractive ferrous accent. The palate is medium-bodied with fine acidity, fleshy in texture and lacking a little power. I wonder whether the low proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon (31%) is beginning to tell? Still a lovely wine though. Drink now-2025. Tasted July 2010. [Neal Martin, 01/07/2010]

Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025