Redefining Value in the Golden State

Have you ever noticed that when you walk through the aisles of a wine shop that the American wines are organized by varietal, yet the rest of the world is organized by country or region? Have we really become so ingrained in varietal that we can’t step away to find something bold and high quality? Newfound proprietor and winemaker Matt Naumann is challenging the status quo of California wine and making some serious waves. With trailblazers like Arnot-Roberts, Bedrock, and Carlisle breaking down the barriers to entry, Matt has carved out his own place in the new California landscape, earning his rise through the sheer quality in every bottle.

Much of Matt’s work comes from his property in the Sierra Foothills. It may not have the cachet of Napa, Santa Barbara, or Sonoma, but it’s undeniably one of California’s best grape-growing regions, and, thankfully, one that remains refreshingly affordable. Long time stewards of the Sierra Foothills like Favia, Keplinger and Turley (among many others) have helped many like Matt find a place to call home. The soils can cultivate a large array of varieties, so the opportunities are vast when creating a brand. Much of which thrives in the area is Rhône varietals, which Matt has quickly seized upon and is doing some of his best work.

While I mentioned the composition of these wines, what is yielded in the glass is simply not what you would expect. These are wines of remarkable balance, complexity and sophistication yet never lack in texture or richness. At no point do they come across as sweet, hot or “over the top”; they are just wonderfully well-made wines. For those that must have the Cabernet Sauvignon mentioned on the label, these may not be for you, but those that are looking to branch out and find something that really shakes the tree of value, these should absolutely be your next stop.

The Gravels has made regular appearances on my dinner table for years. What’s wild is that the price has gone DOWN since I started buying it! If I was in love with it before, it’s only gotten that much better since. The Chardonnay is a showstopper to me. It’s a wine that has been fun to track its progress as this just keeps getting better and better with each passing month. It’s best to make sure there is plenty left in the bottle past the one-hour mark as this is when the wine hits its best gear. The Maus Vineyard blend (made famous by another upstart, Ketan Mody of Beta/Jasud) is a joyride of complexity that is typically only found in the best from Châteauneuf-du-Pape like Beaucastel and Pegau. The Cemetery Vineyard is darker and more reserved but shows great richness and sophistication as the wine sits open. Cemetery is probably best held back for a few years, but you will be richly rewarded!

We strongly recommend buying a mixed case for drinking at home. These are the real deal!