Passing the Torch

“These are special, artisan wines that are very much worth exploring.” -Antonio Galloni, Vinous

One of the ugly truths about wine is that sometimes the family no longer wants to continue the legacy. It can happen for a variety of reasons, but when it’s an historic estate, who becomes the keeper of those sacred vines is where the fans of that vintner can get a little nervous. Fortunately, in recent times, many of the greatest and most iconic estates are falling into the right hands. Like Clos Rougeard being bought by the owners of Montrose, or Rene Engel being purchased by the owners of Château Latour.

Today’s triumphant passing of the torch is from the legendary estate of Jacques Puffney, one of the pillars and pioneers of the Jura. For those unfamiliar with Puffney or the Jura, this has been one of the hottest categories in wine. Burgundian varietals like Pinot Noir and Chardonnay thrive here, so it’s only natural that a great Burgundian producer snapped up this property. Guillaume d’Angerville made the bold choice to carry on the legacy but with his own spin, re-naming the estate Domaine du Pélican. Wines of the Jura can be made in an oxidative style- but not here. These wines are crystalline in their purity and minerality, a perfect backbone for those coming from the limestone rich soils of the Côte d’Or.

The trio you see here are the top of the range for Domaine du Pélican. These are major bargains compared to the price of Burgundy, but offer the same level of enjoyment you would expect in a bottle produced by d’Angerville. My personal favorite of the trio is the Savignin, a local varietal that is framed around a high acid profile, yet with texture to balance. Think Grand Cru Chablis, for about half the price. The En Barbi Chardonnay takes a page out of Meursault, offering up tremendous minerality and impeccable fruit profile thanks to only very large oak casks being used to age the wine. The Pinot Noir takes on a more ethereal style, one that both Burgundy lovers and Barolo/Barbaresco lovers will be captivated by. The fruit purity in all of this is simply staggering with remarkable freshness.