2020 Keller, Dalsheimer Burgel Spatburgunder GG, Rheinhessen 1x750ml

Vinous 93

This came out of cask in February 2022 and was bottled unfiltered from tank in July of that year. It’s due for release in spring 2023. It smells fantastic. High-toned cherry almond is accompanied by floral effusions sweetly suggestive of freesia and a strong suggestion of animal savor that seems equal parts veal and scallop. All of this cashes out on the glossy palate into bright, crunchy red berry juiciness, inner-mouth perfume and mouthwatering carnality. Smoke and toasted coconut hints are the only direct indications of oak influence, and they’re perfectly complementary. Nor, clearly, can wood be any significant drag on the finish because it’s impeccably pure-fruited, animatingly tangy and downright refreshing, as well as possessive of saline-sweet evocations of raw bivalves and crustacean that are quite uncanny. “Bürgel was always entirely from German clones,” explains Keller. But beginning with this edition, nearly half of the wine’s volume reflects Burgundian sélection massale. And not from young vines. Rather, the new material was top-grafted onto the old. “Spätburgunder on Spätburgunder,” as Keller puts it. [David Schildknecht, 03/09/2023]

Anticipated maturity: 2022-2042