2019 Keller, Dalsheimer Hubacker Riesling Grosses Gewachs, Rheinhessen 1x750ml

Vinous 93

A haunting, penetratingly high-toned melange of gentian, black tea, bruised apple skin and quince distillate resembles the nose of no other Hubacker that I can recall. (If told I were smelling Abtserde, I d have believed it.) As it turns out, this is also one of, if not the most, impressive – but also, the most youthfully expressive – Hubacker of my experience. The palate, like the nose, offers distillate-like, estrous concentration, haunting inner-mouth smokiness and enough citrus juice to animate. A vibrant sense of energy is conveyed in a soaringly sustained finish. [David Schildknecht, 09/03/2023]

Anticipated maturity: 2022-2040