2014 Domaine Ponsot, Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, Cuvee Vieilles Vignes 1x750ml

Robert Parker 91-93

The 2014 Clos Vougeot Cuvée Vieilles Vignes took a little more coaxing from the glass than its fellow Grand Crus. Quite opaque at first, the nose is deep with a mixture of red and black fruit (blacker than Laurent Ponsot’s Grand Crus from Gevrey for example). The palate is medium-bodied with fine, supple tannin and grippy in the mouth, suggesting just a little more extraction perhaps? This has real weight and presence, though I would like to see more detail and tension come through on the finish. Whatever, it will need some serious aging in the cellar. Laurent Ponsot was unfortunately away when I visited the domaine, but fortunately chef de cave Arnaud was on hand to guide me through the 2014s. He told me that they picked from 23 September until the beginning of October, as is customary here, later than many growers. He told me that there was some affect of the drosophila suzukii but that it was spread over the vineyards rather than specific locations. In any case, it was remedied by vigorous sorting in the vines. The malolactic was smooth and quick and finished by the end of the year. The wines will be bottled May/June 2016. It was an excellent, occasionally spellbinding set of 2014s from Ponsot, the seemingly never-ending array of Grand Crus achieving great heights, the highlights being the Clos de la Roche Très Vieilles Vignes and a wonderful Chapelle-Chambertin. [Neal Martin, 09/28/2017]

Anticipated maturity: 2020-2040