2014 Domaine Michel Lafarge, Volnay Premier Cru, Les Caillerets 1x750ml

Robert Parker 92-94

The 2014 Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets has a wonderful limestone bouquet that just gets better and better in the glass: vibrant red cherries, rose petals and fresh strawberry aromas that are beautifully defined. The palate is very well structured, transparent, precise and vibrant with animated red cherry fruit mixed with strawberry. This is one of Lafarge’s most sophisticated contributions to the vintage — intellectual and sensual in equal measure. Michel and Frederic Lafarge (pictured) have done an immense amount to put Volnay at the forefront of people’s minds when it comes to great Burgundy wine. Armed with a choice selection of premier crus, they have foraged a path creating understated Pinot Noirs that are deceptively long lived. It’s as if their greatest wines come with a bit of prestidigitation, a conjuring trick, whereby as time passes they magically gain intensity and presence (as evinced by a remarkable 1972 Volnay Clos des Chene — see this issue’s "Up From the Cellar"). Still, they are not one to rest on their laurels and they debuted their Beaujolais wines this year, which I tasted with Frederic; I include them here rather than saving them for my report next year. [Neal Martin, 28/09/2017]

Anticipated maturity: 2018-2038

Vinous 90-92

Pale-edged bright red. Pungent stony lift to the aromas of cherry, licorice and spices. Penetrating, brisk and pure but with lovely subtle sweetness to the red fruit and spice flavors. This energetic, tight wine shows a touch of dryness on the back but it’s hard to find evidence of hail stress here. [Stephen Tanzer, 01/01/2016]