2013 Domaine Denis Mortet, Gevrey-Chambertin, Mes Cinq Terroirs 1x750ml

Vinous 89+

(30% new oak): Deep red with ruby highlights. Cool aromas of purple fruits complicated by a wild gamey element. High-pitched blue and black fruit flavors are framed by strong acidity and accented by a light peppery quality. A bit rigid in the early going due to its firm tannic spine but this wine shows impressive spicy intensity and inviting salinity. Mortet believes this will be best in ten years. [Stephen Tanzer, 03/01/2016]

Anticipated maturity: 2021-2028

Robert Parker 91-93

The 2013 Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Cinq Terroirs is a blend of fruit hitherto bottled as the Vieilles Vignes and the les Echanges because Arnaud felt that the young vines had come of age and the fruit had reached the same level. Matured in 30% new oak and racked after malolactic at the end of August, it has a well-defined, precise and yet intense bouquet with pure red cherry and wild strawberry scents. There are tangible mineral notes that translate onto the palate defined by taut tannins and a silver thread of acidity. The finish is both poised and linear, completing what is a welcome return for one of Mortet’s best cuvees. Arnaud Mortet has been at the helm of Domaine Denis Mortet in Gevrey-Chambertin for a number of years now, since his father’s untimely passing. Over that time he steadied the ship and consolidated their position as one of the appellation’s leading lights. This year he took a major decision in reintroducing the "Mes Cinq Terroirs" label since he felt that the young vines had "come of age" so to speak, now worthy of blending with the "Vieilles Vignes" and the parcel in "Les Echanges." Tasting this wine in barrel it was an astute decision – the wine is a great success. He was candid about the challenges posed by the 2013 growing season… "It was tough. Very difficult," he remarked before recounting the travails that had been repeated countless times during the week. "We picked on 30 September and over the following ten days. It was raining so we had to make many tries through the vines and make use of the sorting table." Interestingly, Arnaud told me that he undertook a slightly longer cuvaison, unlike Louis Boillot in Chambolle-Musigny, who just an hour before had mentioned a shorter cuvaison. "We chaptalized by about 1.2 or 1.3 degrees," he continued. "The pH came in around 3.1 or 3.2 but then 3.45 after malolactic that was not completed until the period between July and September. The wines had the same malic acid level as the 2008s but there is more ripeness in the 2013s, so the wines are more generous and long-term. The wines were very difficult to taste at the beginning and I was very worried. I had never known a vintage like it. But then after the malolactics they changed remarkably." Arnaud’s wines are relatively modern in style with perhaps more use of new oak then his peers, although the only cru I felt it might be excessive was his Clos de Vougeot. It has been said that his father aimed for intensity of fruit but with elegance: not an easy balance since one is usually at the expense of the other. There is an ineluctable compromise. However, I feel that Arnaud is edging closer to that ideal with every vintage. Stylistically they often remind me of the wines from Claude Dugat just up the road. The wines are made in small quantities so they can be difficult to find, although there is nothing new there. But do not ignore his "lesser" crus such as his Bourgogne Rouge or lovely Marsannay les Longerois that punch above thei [Neal Martin, 01/12/2014]

Anticipated maturity: 2017-2032