2013 Domaine Armand Rousseau, Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru, Clos des Ruchottes 1x750ml

Vinous 91/100

The 2013 Ruchottes-Chambertin Clos des Ruchottes Grand Cru initially has a backward and slightly disjointed bouquet, but it just requires aeration. After a few minutes, crushed limestone infuses the black rather than red fruit. It’s a little rustic, loamy and slightly fungal in style. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, not a complex Ruchottes-Chambertin, but fresh and saline with a hint of kalamata olive towards the finish. This is drinking perfectly now, though it does require decanting. [Neal Martin, 17/10/2023]

Anticipated maturity: 2022-2035

Robert Parker 92-94

The 2013 Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru is another that Frederic was enthusing over as we tasted through the barrel samples. Sure, it has a refined bouquet: strawberry, raspberry preserve, fine minerality and a touch of undergrowth. For me, the palate does not have the complexity as Mugneret-Gibourg’s or even the Charmes- or Mazis-Chambertin. A second barrel shows more energy and vibrancy, the fruit slightly more confit, so let us see how it turns out once in bottle. There he is again. As I fumbled trying to open the wrought iron gate chez Rousseau, the legend that is Charles Rousseau, innings of 91 not out, exited the small cabin where he spends his day in quiet repose to help me inside. Sure, he looks a little gaunt, his gait slower and fragile, the caducity of life evident to see and yet remains the history of Burgundy made flesh, blood and charisma. Winemaker Frederic Robert was on hand as usual to guide me through the barrels, always one of the most candid vignerons in Burgundy. Before embarking upon the tasting he mentioned that the fate of the village cru vines from Chateau de Gevrey has not been decided, choosing to wait until quality reaches a level where it will merit joining their portfolio (no pressure for the vines there then.) However, one parcel owned by the economically-titled ‘Ng’ family has now augmented their plot of Lavaux Saint Jacques. Like many winemakers, Frederic was somewhat surprised and relieved to find how well their 2013s had turned out, although he cautioned that the barrels can change from day to day (and with this in mind I often tasted from two or three to aim for a representative sample blend.) Here they commenced the harvest on October 1 – as is customary a little earlier than other growers, some of whom unsheathed their secateurs around four days later. But he told me that the fruit seemed to have reached its full ripeness level and with the impending gloomy forecast felt there was little point in waiting. And like others, he found the malolactic fermentation stubbornly slow, though most had finished by the end of May. [Neal Martin, 01/12/2014]

Anticipated maturity: 2019-2040