2012 Edmond Vatan, Sancerre, Clos Neore 1×1.5L

Vinous 93

Pale yellow. Fascinating nose opens with lemon balm, then reveals more chalky nuances of mint, gooseberry and menthol with only a hint of smoky herbs and vanilla. Juicy citrus, cassis and pepper flavors are wrapped around an energetic mineral core. The veil of roasted oak is subtle, multilayered and persistent, seeming to float weightlessly over the wine in spite of its rich warmth. Ripe papaya, yellow currant and elderflower linger on the impressively long finish. Unfortunately, this is a Sancerre that few will ever see. Made from a single hectare in Chavignol by Anne Vatan, Edmund’s daughter, it is for many the epitome of what a Sancerre can be. She is married to Nadi Foucault from Clos Rougeard, who I will portray in the third piece in this series on cabernet franc. She was travelling when I was in Sancerre this summer, but I was able to drink the bottle below with a friend in Paris. It’s one of the finest Sancerres that I tasted for this article and will certainly be far better with a few more years of bottle age. [Joel B. Payne, 01/09/2014]