2009 Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Volnay Premier Cru, Les Santenots du Milieu 1x750ml

Vinous 95+

Lafon’s 2009 Volnay Santenots boasts extraordinary polish and sheer class. Crushed flowers, licorice, red berries and minerals are all woven together in a fabric of notable refinement. The Santenots is quite rich, but also refined as it literally floats on the palate. This is a dazzling showing from Dominique Lafon. [Antonio Galloni, 01/04/2012]

Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039

Robert Parker 96

The 2009 Volnay-Santenots is a wine of breathtaking finesse and elegance. Impossibly silky on the palate, the Santenots impresses for its vivid texture, nuance and precise voice. All of the elements flow across the palate with stunning grace, building beautifully towards the multi-dimensional finish. This is a flat-out great wine from Dominique Lafon. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2034. I arrived at Lafon just as the last of the 2009s were being bottled. Dominique Lafon describes the 2009 harvest as a generous one, which I am sure he was quite happy about given 2008. The approach at Lafon can be best described as gentle. The wines are mostly made from 100% destemmed fruit (the 2009 Monthelie is an exception, with 25% whole clusters). The fruit undergoes a cold soak of 4-5 days followed by a maceration of three weeks on the skins. After pressing the wines are left in steel for two weeks to encourage natural decantation, and are then racked into barrel with the fine lees. New oak is about 25% for the Monthelie, 33% for the Volnay and Clos des Chenes, and slightly more for the Champans and Santenots. Vintage 2008 was not an easy one for Dominique Lafon. In Volnay, the cold spring and ensuing irregular flowering lowered yields by a third, until hail in July took care of another third. Lafon said these were the lowest yields he had ever seen in his career. The remaining fruit, though, was quite pretty, as these sublime 2008s amply demonstrate. Lafon may be best known for his whites, but readers should pay just as much attention to these superb reds. Readers can find notes on Lafon’s 2009s, which I tasted from barrel, on www.erobertparker.com. Importers: Classic Wine Imports, Norwood, MA, tel. (781) 352 1100; Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA, tel. (510) 559 1040; A Daniel Johnnes Selection imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY, tel. (516) 677 9300 [Antonio Galloni, 05/02/2011]

Anticipated maturity: 2019-2034