2008 Domaine Leflaive, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru 1x750ml

Robert Parker 94

This magnum of the 2008 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru is an original release, and it is a little more developed than the “reconditioned” 750-milliliter bottle I reviewed last year. Offering up aromas of mandarin orange, marmalade, honeycomb, fresh pastry, white flowers and vanilla pod, it’s medium to full-bodied, ample and penetrating, with lively acids and a long, exotic finish. While this is drinking well, it’s a little open-knit for a 12-year-old Chevalier-Montrachet, especially in magnum, and—as with most Leflaive white Burgundies from this era of endemic premature oxidation—I wouldn’t bet on it making old bones. In that respect, it was interesting to see what a difference the domaine’s reconditioning had made to the last example of this wine that I encountered. [William Kelley, 09/02/2020]

Anticipated maturity: 2018-2025

Vinous 92-95

(malo done but not yet fined) Bright, light medium yellow. Ripe nectarine and a touch of minerality on the nose, but less stony and vineyard-typical than the 2009. Very rich and chewy in the mouth, showing riesling-like mineral and pepper qualities and a touch of reduction. Less expressive today than the 2009 but deep and chewy, perhaps holding back as much as it’s showing today. Expands impressively on the back end, finishing with a sweet impression for a wine with just 1.2 grams per liter of r.s. Not quite as mineral-driven as a sample I tried last spring. [Stephen Tanzer, 01/09/2010]