2005 Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Volnay Premier Cru, Les Santenots du Milieu 1×1.5L

Robert Parker 95

Having tasted this three or four times in the past, I probably have under-rated this wine because it is such a long-term proposition. The 2005 Volnay Santenot has a dense, almost impenetrable bouquet that demands considerable aeration to unveil its multi-layered aromatic profile of creme de cassis, raspberry, blackberry and a veneer of new oak that needs several more years to be fully absorbed (indeed, it feels like more than the one-third new oak that Dominique uses). The palate is full-bodied with a sweet, succulent entry. It is beautifully balanced, vivacious and sensual with a dab of alcohol on the finish. It is far too young to broach at the moment, but it will develop with style over the next three decades. Drink 2018-2035. Tasted September 2013. [Neal Martin, 01/12/2013]

Anticipated maturity: 2018-2035

Vinous 94

The 2005 Volnay 1er Cru Santenots-du-Milieu from Comtes Lafon is superb. Having recently tasted the 2009, 2010 and 2011, I am curious to see where the 2005 is. Still a big, broad-shouldered wine, the 2005 is beautiful, open and expressive on this night. The wine’s breadth and pure power are both impressive. At the same time, slightly angular contours and drying tannins, especially on the finish, are impossible to escape. The 2005 remains a striking Santenots, but it is also a bit burly. I don’t see the 2005 ever becoming one of the more polished vintages, but would also like to taste it in another 5 years to see if it has acquired a measure of elegance that today is elusive. [Antonio Galloni, 07/01/2013]