1999 Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Volnay Premier Cru, Les Santenots du Milieu 1x750ml

Vinous 92

Very healthy dark color with just a hint of browning at the edge. Expressive aromas of black cherry, dark berries and chocolate. Seriously sweet and thick but in a distinctly powerful style, conveying a medicinal quality to its very ripe plum, dark cherry and mint flavors. The big tannins saturate the mouth and teeth. There’s certainly no rush to drink this–and give it some time in a decanter if you decide to try it soon. "This was a time when we made very dense wines," said Dominique Lafon. "There wasn’t an understanding of elegant wines in Burgundy then. And there was also more extraction." He went on: "This wine does not have the same tannins as the 2015 and 2016. In 1999 we punched down the cap every day, but in recent vintages we’re only doing a total of three pigeages." [Stephen Tanzer, 01/03/2018]

Anticipated maturity: 2018-2034

Robert Parker 90

Some might regard my score for the 1999 as a bit mean, but this is a vintage that I find too ostentatious. It has a voluminous, brazen bouquet with saturated small dark cherries, dark plum and a touch of iodine – but for me, it seems to lack some class. The palate is very concentrated with thickset tannins, layers of glossy dark cherry and strawberry fruit that coat the plush tannic backbone. However, the finish is too sweet and consequently it does not entice another sip like the 1996, as if the wine is trying too hard to impress. In fact, although you could argue that analytically it is better than the 2000, it is the millennial wine I would choose to drink. Drink 2014-2025. Tasted September 2013. [Neal Martin, 12/01/2013]

Anticipated maturity: 2014-2025