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$475.00
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One of the most pleasant surprises of the night, the 1996 Le Clos Saint Hilaire, is striking. Crushed flowers, mint, autumn leaves and sweet berries all lift from the glass. Sweet, pliant and generous, the 1996 shows exceptional balance and purity. I don’t see the 1996 as a super long-term ager, but it is fabulous today.
Anticipated maturity: 2014-2020
Billecart-Salmon’s 1996 Le Clos Saint-Hilaire has lost some of its youthful exuberance and the fruit now is a touch softer than it was a few years ago. The aromatics and overall balance remain seductive and utterly compelling. To gain perspective, I tasted this next to Bollinger’s Vielles Vignes Francaises and Krug’s Clos d’Ambonnay. The Clos Saint-Hilaire is the most delicate, ethereal of the three, while the VVF is the darkest and most brooding, purely vinous of the wines. The Clos d’Ambonnay stands out for its laser-like minerality and intensity. It is likely to be the longest-lived of these three Blanc de Noirs.