1986 Chateau Mouton Rothschild Premier Cru Classe, Pauillac 1x750ml

Vinous 100

As it nears 40 years in age, the 1986 Mouton-Rothschild is acquiescing to time, those huge tannins polymerising as primary fruit evolves into secondary. The nose is a cornucopia of scents-blackberry, cedar, mint and freshly picked violet-all delivered with equal precocity and control. This is the first time that this Mouton-Rothschild has conveyed a more melted texture on the palate. There remains immense grip, but all those angles and edges have been smoothed into velvet. It has amazing depth, unfurling layers of predominantly black fruit, blueberry and graphite before it dovetails into a sumptuous yet still aristocratic finish. The 1986 feels like a well-behaved 1982 Mouton, less hedonistic, a little more statesmanlike. In general, the 1986s are a bit forgotten, sometimes dismissed simply because they were predestined to evolve so slowly. But the best examples are delivering for those with patience. The 1986 Mouton-Rothschild is the best of them all. [Neal Martin, 01/12/2025]

Anticipated maturity: 2025-2060

Robert Parker 100

The 1986 Mouton-Rothschild is a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot that was picked from 2 October until 16 October. Winemaker Philippe Dhalluin, who was not working at the property back then, told me that the pH was fairly low at 3.54 when it is usually around 3.75, due to the natural tartaric acid in the vines. It has a powerful and intense bouquet as always: exemplary graphite and cedar scents, a touch of black pepper and incense. It seems to unfurl in the glass, like a motor revving its engine. The palate is beautifully balanced with its trademark firm tannic structure, a Mouton-Rothschild with backbone and masculinity. Layers of black fruit intermingling with mint and graphite, a hint of licorice emanating from the Merlot, gently fanning out and my God, it is incredibly long. It is not like the 1985 Mouton-Rothschild that is so fleshy and generous. This is serious, aristocratic Mouton, a true vin de garde and yes, I do think drinkers will have to wait until it reaches its true peak. Sometimes that’s just the way it is. Tasted September 2016. [Neal Martin, 28/09/2017]

Anticipated maturity: 2021-2050