Drink Up

We spend a lot of time discussing the pedigree of the wines we sell, but I realized that I rarely talk in depth about the wines I genuinely enjoy drinking. People are always curious about what I like to drink at home or during the holidays. Today, I wanted to share a selection of wines that are part of my home collection or regular rotation, each chosen for a specific reason.

I have a dangerous penchant for white Burgundy, which developed after a deep dive into Sancerre. Not just any Sancerre, but the cult classics from the region known for their ageworthy, high-quality wines. My journey began with Pascal Cotat and his brother François, and twenty years later, I still can’t resist their wines. While other top Sancerre producers have seen their prices escalate, Cotat’s wines have barely budged in the last 5-7 years. As for white Burgundy, my admiration for Hubert Lamy has been strong for 15 years. In fact, I bought my 2014s and 2015s from Cellar Trading before I even worked here! Ramonet is another long-time favorite, with nearly two decades of collecting and a memorable visit to Burgundy. I wish I could say the same for Comtes Lafon, but this is a more recent passion. Over the past five years, I’ve watched their wines improve significantly and have probably bought more from them than any other producer recently. My love for Burgundy also extends to reds. Chevillon is the producer I own the most of, offering one of the greatest values in the Cote d’Or. Like Lafon, I was late to the Lafarge game but have been stocking up each year.

As much as I love the classics, the essence of wine for me lies in discovery. There are remarkable wines being made worldwide, and each year brings new additions, making it a bit challenging to navigate. While not all will have lasting power, I have recently come across several brands I firmly believe in for their past, present, and future. Morgen Long has risen to the top of the Oregon Chardonnay scene and consistently earns high scores, with a perfect score likely on the horizon. Speaking of Oregon, Rose & Arrow, guided early on by Louis Michel Liger-Belair, is now producing some of the best Pinot Noir in America. Washington’s rising star, Kobayashi, has impressed me so much that I continue to buy their wines from the mailing list for my personal collection, despite our buying them for the store.

Emmanuel Brochet was introduced to me on a trip to Napa about ten years ago, and my appreciation for his wines has remained steadfast. I recently opened a bottle of Mont Benoit and was reminded of my initial tasting experience. I also enjoyed the 2020 Clape Cornas, grateful that the wines are back within a normal price range and added a few to my cellar. At the same time, I had a 2018 Clos Rougeard Saumur Champigny, which also evoked memories. Despite Foucault’s passing and the sale of the estate, it’s clear that the new owners (Chateau Montrose) have no intention of altering a winning formula. The wine perfectly balances the beauty of Cabernet Franc with the Burgundian magic that has been this estate’s hallmark for nearly a century.