Poderi Colla: Piedmont Game Changers

Poderi Colla is hardly a household name in Barolo or Barbaresco. They’ve largely flown under the radar for the three decades they’ve been making wine under the family name, but their history is what makes them arguably Piedmont’s most important family. Over 60 years ago, Beppe Colla forever changed the landscape of the region, and how Barolo and Barbaresco wines are made. That one simple change (see below) has made possible the great Piedmont surge of recent years.

Once the owner of the famed Prunotto winery, Beppe Colla was a trailblazer who paved the way for some of the most important Nebbiolo houses of today. In 1961, he introduced the concept of “Cru” wines being made in Piedmont, better known in the United States as “single vineyard.” This change was monumental for the region, far beyond mere labeling and marketing. With “Cru” designations, farming changed, and winemaking followed. Planning, mapping, and planting new parcels all changed. Colla’s application of the old French designation system paved the way for superstars like Vietti and Burlotto, who thrive on the reputation of single vineyard Barolos.

When the Colla family sold Prunotto to Antinori in the early 1990s, there was still a burning desire to carry on the family name, and so the next iteration of their winemaking legacy began by putting their name on the front label. Crafting remarkable single vineyard Barolo and Barbaresco is both difficult and rare, but the Collas achieve just that, year in and year out. Their traditional style lends itself perfectly to the sites, and the wines are truly striking before you even take a sip. The nose explodes out of the glass (think Roagna), with the flavors and textures as classic as any other great Nebbiolo. But don’t take just our word for it. Antonio Galloni agrees, writing, “I find it hard to believe, but Poderi Colla remains one of the under the radar gems in Piedmont.”

Today we have two newly released, highly impressive Riservas for you, both hailing from the tremendous 2015 vintage. Neither has been rated yet, but after what we tasted, trust us: you’ll absolutely want to collect these before any press is given, or you won’t get the chance. They’re utterly magnificent, and unfortunately, though not surprisingly for great wines, highly limited in quantity.