The Musigny of Barolo

If you are an Italian wine collector, you may be less familiar with the Musigny vineyard in Burgundy. It is one of the most celebrated and sought-after vineyards in the world, with wines known above all else for pure seduction. They are elegant, ethereal, and expensive. On the lower end, Musigny starts at more than $1,000 a bottle and can easily climb into five figures for a bottle from Domaine Leroy. The good news is that today’s offer costs nowhere near that, but follows the same general blueprint as wines many times the price.

Vigna Rionda is Barolo’s answer to that combination of pedigree and potential. Its greatness goes back decades, including Bruno Giacosa’s legendary 1978 Vigna Rionda Riserva. That wine has more than stood the test of time and, sadly, is now out of reach for many collectors, if you can even find a bottle. Giacosa produced a Vigna Rionda Riserva only four times, helping cement the vineyard’s reputation. Over the last 20 years, Vigna Rionda has only continued to rise and is now considered one of the most important vineyards in all of Barolo. That combination of elegance, complexity, and seduction is what makes the comparison to Musigny so compelling.

Of course, great vines and great soils alone don’t guarantee great wine. In 2012, Luigi Oddero brought in a man who knew a thing or two about Barolo greatness: Dante Scaglione, whose résumé included 16 years working alongside the legendary Bruno Giacosa. The pieces were now in place. Scaglione passed along his immense knowledge to current winemaker Francesco Versio, who has now joined the vaunted 100-point club with the Oddero family.

Today’s offer is for the latest release, the 2019 Luigi Oddero Barolo Vignarionda. If the Oddero name looks familiar, your eyes are not deceiving you. This is the other side of the Oddero family. The wines are cut from a very classic cloth and beautifully reflect the character of the vineyard. Vignarionda delivers depth and richness while maintaining tremendous class and complexity, and that is exactly what you get here.

I’ve included the 100-point review below because it captures exactly what makes this wine so special:

“One of the greatest expressions of this revered site and of this outstanding vintage, the Luigi Oddero 2019 Barolo Vignarionda is utterly breathtaking. From a classic vintage, it recalls the extraordinary Barolos from the era before climate change, starting with its multifaceted and intense aromas of red forest berry, new leather, cedar, truffle and wild rose. Full-bodied, structured and nuanced, the elegant palate is also intense and delicious, delivering succulent Morello cherry, raspberry, licorice and menthol set against a backbone of refined, well-integrated tannins. Bright acidity keeps it balanced and energized. While it’s already tempting, give this time to fully develop. What a Beauty.” – Kerin O’Keefe